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::Stelios Jackson's walks
interkriti:the E4 and other Mythical Trails-by Stelios Jackson
A diary of events of the trials and tribulations
of a lone walker, in his attempt to cross Crete
from Kato Zakros to Kissamos...
Home Chapters History Boxes
Chapter Two: The Prewalk.
Part One: Velonado - Kato Rodakino
Thanks to Michael Maloney and Lala for pointing out the errors of some of my ways!

Saturday the 3rd of May 2003
Rude awakenings and the last hurrah!
So, where was I? No, really! Where was I? I had been somewhat rudely awakened by a sound resembling a trombone pressed to the lips of a four-year-old. What was a young child doing playing trombone in my bedroom? And at this hour! This hour? I prised open a sleepy eye - with some difficulty - and looked at my watch, from which the only information I could glean was that I still possessed a watch. The child ceased its cacophony momentarily; long enough for me to recognise the feeling of relief I get when Rex stops snoring. I looked across the room, and sure enough there was Rex, dead-to-world. So, if Rex was here, all I needed to work out was where "here" was. Slowly the jigsaw puzzle that was my fragmented mind on the morning of Saturday the third of May, began to piece itself together and recall the previous evening.

We had decided to eat at the hotel; primarily due to its proximity to our bedroom but also because we felt it was the proper thing to do. Mr Zographakis had been very hospitable and we wanted to show him that we appreciated it. We had eaten well that afternoon down in the lower village, so this evening's meal was not to be a huge feast, though somehow it managed to become one. I had meant to ask for a miso kilo (half litre) of "village wine", but had omitted the "miso" (I don't usually do things in halves, so my vocabulary refused to access the Greek word for "half" or at least I failed to enunciate it properly!). The arrival of a somewhat larger jug than I had expected, altered my choice of what to eat from "just a starter" (which I had already ordered), to a starter and a main course (pasta I believe; or at least it's a fair bet to assume so), as I felt I didn't want to be drinking too much and not eating at the same time (see I have my sensible moments too!). A fine meal was had before Mr Zographakis treated us to an extra litre of village wine and then proceeded to disappear and share a family meal, leaving us sitting there waiting to pay the bill. I have no idea why I felt it necessary to pay the bill that evening - we were, after all, staying in the rooms above - perhaps I had high-hopes of being up-and-away before the family Zographakis arose; fat-chance of that happening...ever! So, we sat and sipped and sipped and sat; I suffered an uncontrollable giggling fit, as we entered our third hour in this state of "waiting for the waiter". By way of apology for their prolonged absence, one of the Zographakis' (there are quite a number of them), brought us some melon and the obligatory tsikoudhia! Uh-oh! It would have been rude to refuse the wine or the raki, wouldn't it? Rude, but wise! Tsikoudhia and its effects, I have briefly documented in chapter one, and "village wine" is also matter of taste. My taste will become accustomed rather quickly to most things containing alcohol - as I am sure you have already learned - with the exception of gin! Retsina is a case in point. My father - a red-head Scot, who'd worked in various distilleries of the Scottish highlands in his youth - once told me how he had hated Retsina until he discovered how cheap it was and determined thenceforth to enjoy at least that aspect of it. Needless to say he also started to enjoy the taste very shortly afterwards. That's one of the great aspects of travel for me; sampling local produce quite often alters ones taste.

With my legs now out of bed I studied my feet and realised that they were demanding to be scratched. "Itchy feet". Not only is this a fine metaphor for the way I felt, but it is also a condition I suffer from when I am anxious - and I was anxious - though this itchiness may have been caused by one or more of the mosquitoes that had serenaded me that night! I headed to the bathroom and with rheumy eyes looked at the pasty-faced figure that had etched itself onto the mirror, mimicking my every move. I felt nauseous, both with anxiety and another feeling that I knew only too well; a hangover for which the "guilty" party had been the wine (not me for drinking copious amounts of it, note!) For the foreseeable future (two days as it turned out!), "village wine" would join gin on my list of "leave well alone".

I had promised myself that the latest I would rise would be 7.30AM, so what the hell was the time? I tried to see if I could obtain any more information from my watch than I had a few moments ago; I couldn't. As my vision slowly improved however, I noticed a wall clock which suggested that it might be 8.43AM. I stood up and decided to have a closer look at this clock, stumbling across the room as I did so, and stubbing my toe on one of the legs of the bed, what was far more painful though was that 8.43 had now become 8.44. Alarm! How could I have been so stupid? This was the day I had been planning for the past two years and now it had arrived I was nervous...no, terrified and to add injury to insult, stupefied from the excesses of the previous night too!

I have strange hangovers; not just headaches and bleariness for me, oh no...it's far worse than that. I suffer from panic attacks. These can be of such intensity that anybody with any sense would immediately take the vow and never let a drop pass their lips again; so no abstinence for me! My introspective anger didn't help either; it never does, but I deserved this fury from the better-part of my remaining brain-cells. Over the past couple of years I had blagged and bragged; told everybody I knew - and others I didn't - at great length of my great plans to walk the "great island". In the warm light of this morning, what I feared most was that I had been lying to myself for all that time. Was I really capable! I certainly didn't look up for anything other than lying down. "Ah come on man, easy-peasy this'll be", a small voice told me; I hardly recognised that voice as mine and I am still not quite sure it was! Very shortly I would find out whether I could walk in a straight line - if at all - with a 15 Kg rucksack on my shoulders, though at least I had chosen a relatively easy first route. The direction would be pretty straightforward - Velonado to Rodakino, via Alones was mostly a southerly course with a soupcon of South-West thrown in for good measure - and I reckoned on six hours at the outside and a good chance for a swim at the end of it all. "That's the stuff, feel better already", I lied, as I stared at this shadow of my former-self and it stared back at me with red eyes, yellow skin, British teeth and no discernible upper-lip. Yep, my reflection looked better than I felt.

How he does it is beyond me, but the boy Rex had woken, dressed and was sitting on the balcony by the time I had showered and brushed my teeth, when only a few minutes before, hadn't he been fast asleep? We headed downstairs to where Mr Zographakis and a hearty breakfast of misithra - a goats' cheese that packs as powerful a punch as his village wine - and bread, greeted us. Mr Z is a man with many strings to his bow and a nephew who runs a hotel in Koraka - the beach resort a kilometre or so South of Kato Rodakino. Excellent, a place to stay. So with this information in our armoury, and bidding our host farewell - promising him that we would return in a month - off we set for Velonado. It was now past 9.30 and as much as I was looking forward to coming back to Argyroupolis, I hadn't meant as soon as we actually did! Ten minutes after setting-off we were back, Rex deciding that the needle of the petrol gauge pointing vaguely in the direction of "empty" was a bad portent. A look at the map, showed the nearest petrol station just East of where we had started, and like the prodigal son there I was, back, and grinning like an idiot, at the man whom I had just told I would "see next month". He confirmed that the petrol station was indeed a kilometre or so East of here and thanking him, we drove-off to find it. I liked Mr Zographakis, but knew that we would be seeing him again once the car's thirst had been sated, as this road  - with the hotel that he was sitting outside - was by far the most direct route to Velonado. I would have preferred to have driven back around Psiloritis rather than have to face the embarrassment of having to say "farewell" thrice, to anybody...even Mr Z, but Rex wasn't with me on this one, and neither was the clock. And so it was that we tooted our horn at our friend for the third and last time.

Beware, I shall be proffering - in graphic detail - the short-comings of the way-marking of the E4 throughout the forthcoming chapters, but for now, let's just say that Rex and I (his navigator!) had tremendous problems re-finding Velonado - a place we had visited from the very point we were driving from, not 24 hours earlier. Two wrong turns and a possible correct one, had there been a road to drive on indicated with horrible prescience, the problems I was to encounter later that day, but we did eventually make Velonado at around 10.30 in the morning and sat down for the second time in less than a day, at the "kafeneion".

The word "kafeneion" conjures up images of old men, sitting around playing their umpteenth game of tavli (backgammon), of the morning, whilst eking-out their "Elliniko cafe" (Greek coffee) - wherever you go in the Eastern Mediterranean, these small "silt-lined" coffee cups go by the name of the country they are being drunk in. Of course it was originally "Arabic coffee", but try telling that to a Greek, a Turk or a Cypriot. In these places a single cup of Greek coffee can keep elderly gentlemen happy for hours; a trick I would dearly love to learn (for me it is a down-in-one experience, but then again, so are most liquids, Perhaps it's learned with age, and if so, I'll let you know by the time I have finished writing-up the walk!). This place wasn't that kind of kafeneion at all. More of a roadside stopping-off point; there for the hikers of this world to rest their weary legs, or to fortify themselves with a shot or two of caffeine before the day's adventures begin. The "Happy Walkers" were back! This time there were a few English speakers among them and I left Rex to enjoy a pleasant chinwag (talk) with a chap named Clive, as I tried to find a "local" or two to quiz on the whereabouts of the "monopati (footpath) Epsilon Tessera (E4)". No luck. Either there was a conspiracy of silence or they had genuinely not heard of it. One chap explained that he was a "xenos" (foreigner) in these parts, and with a grin I asked him if he needed directions anywhere. His look was withering, so I suspected that he didn't. I rejoined Rex, Clive and the other walkers - who looked happier than I - at the cafe and inspected my itchy feet through my boots.

The Walk Begins
I am not sure of the catalyst, but all of a sudden and without warning, I was walking. It was 11.25 AM, and in my own inimitable bent-over-double-shuffle way, there I was, on-hoof. I felt - and probably looked - like a toddler, with the expectations and fears of those gathered at the roadside cafe aiding my advance, as they cheered and applauded...silently. With these lofty thoughts, I heard my first genuine words of encouragement.  "Hang on a minute" shouted Rex and asked to borrow my camera, to take a picture of "Tsaksonakis" (my Cretan nickname), as I at last put my best foot forward. "See you between four and five this afternoon", I confidently advised my friend.

The thrill of the first few steps had a splendidly cathartic effect on me; this was it and I was actually doing it. I have no idea how many hundreds/thousands of times I had envisaged this particular moment and when it finally arrived it felt like the albatross - which had been decomposing around my neck for the past two years - had finally been lain to rest. My rucksack contained enough clothing to "see me alright" for a month, but I had taken a mere one and a half litres of water with me. Now that is stupid at the best of times, but especially when its 25c in the shade - of which I would have none (!) - and you know it's just going to get hotter! My justification for this was that my five hour walks in England, rarely had me drinking half that quantity and I was expecting this particular walk to be no more than six hours at the most, with water available - either from natural sources, or at Alones the only village I would pass through - on route. I had supposed that I would need no more than a litre of water for this little trek, and I had taken 50% more than that. I had supposed erroneously!

The path out of Velonado heads West. Within two minutes of the "kafeneion", there is a break in the road which takes you in a South-Westerly direction. This is the path I chose and if you wish to follow the E4, I can tell you from now, and without fear of contradiction, that it's the wrong one!  From these generally correct beginnings, the path swings round to the East and for a while takes you North-East. I had heard all about the mysterious ways of the E4 and so chose to ignore the fact that I was heading rather rapidly towards Psiloritis, and thus quite clearly in the wrong direction. Rising to 2456 metres (8058 ft), Mount Ida is pretty hard to ignore and after approximately twenty minutes of satisfying but sweaty walking, I was closing-in on Crete's tallest mountain, at the rate of...well, my walking pace, I suppose. I was about to return to Velonado when a friendly shepherd (Michaelis) and his son (Nikos), stopped me. "Where are you off to?", Michaelis inquired. I am a good liar, and the word "Psiloritis" nearly slipped out - that being the blindingly obvious direction that I was travelling in - but I wanted to get to Rodakino by mid-afternoon and I didn't want to have to retread my path to obtain that goal. "Rodakino", I said. "You are going the wrong way" came the helpful reply. "I know..." I replied unconvincingly, but I did know...there was an enormous great mountain dominating the skyline and telling me so. "...Can I get there this way?" I asked. "Yes!" replied Michaelis.

Thank-heavens! Michaelis proceeded to direct me, but as my Greek is not as good as it should be and my understanding of the Cretan dialect, only half as good as "not as good as it should be", I didn't quite catch every word he spoke. Instead, I tried to translate what he had said three sentences ago whilst nodding "intelligently" at the stream of words that followed. It's a problem knowing enough Greek to be able to converse, but not enough to have deeply-meaningful conversations and believe me this conversation was "deeply meaningful", or at least to me it should have been. As I was busily trying to work out whether his allusion to "Gatsos", was the Greek poet or a derivation of katsakoudhi (little goat) or maybe the Greek word for dressing a scald, Michaelis continued and so did the inner workings of my brain. (Michaelis gestured) "...No, why would he be discussing poetry with me", I thought. (Michaelis pointed...)..."scalding...sounds possible in this heat I suppose, but that suggests boiling water. Is there an underground sulphurous spring here?" (Michaelis drew to his conclusion...)  "Now, 'goats', that's a possibility, but why little ones...?"  By the time Michaelis had described - quite possibly in minutiae - which way to travel to reach my ultimate destination,  I had decided that "goat" was the most probable translation of the word he had uttered in his first sentence, and missed any subsequent hints and tips, which probably ran to many. "Sorry, how does one get to Rodakino from here?", I asked. A withering look followed, not unlike the one I had received from the xenos in Velonado; I smiled and patted him on the back and pleaded an English sense of humour. How we laughed. How I wished I was capable of listening more attentively!

I had managed to pick-out pieces of the conversation and promised myself a reread of Gatsos' "Amorgos" once I got home. To paraphrase Michaelis: the path swings round the mountain which was to our South, taking you to the other side in three shakes of a little goat's tail and from there-on, it's all jolly straightforward, (though beware of sulphur springs and/or itinerant poets). Problem was, the goats weren't for shaking (far too fleet-footed), and by the time I was on the other side of the mountain the hands on my watch (now visible), showed that it had passed 1PM. Away in the distance I could see a path heading South-West which appeared to run parallel with the direction of the one that I was now on. That must be the "E4" and I can only assume that it appears slightly after the path I took just outside Velonado. I had a wee (short!) break; five minutes and a few sips of water. I was running late here and wanted to be in Rodakino by six at the very latest.

Poles and Vaults
Another hour or so of walking deposited me in the rather nice village of Alones. A gentleman of uncertain age and charming toothless smile, stopped me and asked where I was going . He had been in the merchant navy throughout his earlier life, but now in his 80s - I was now informed, though he looked not a day over 60 - was chatting to walkers and sending them wherever he wished! "Rodakino", I replied. "Ahhh, Rodakino." I was regaled with past stories of Rodakino from this wonderful gentleman, though his idea of how to reach it was very much at odds with mine and the maps I had with me. Yes I know I have already given the makers of the various maps to Crete a hard time - and I have hardly begun with that particular theme - but Rodakino was South of Alones...clearly South...almost directly South with a tad of West thrown in, and not North-West, which my new-found friend seemed to believe it was. I looked at one of my maps. The road he was directing me on was the road to Rompado, which is not far from Velonado, my point of departure almost three hours before. Maybe it was my pronunciation; either that or he could have been thinking that I was driving and needed to take the road, but this would also have been the wrong direction, so I let it rest. I wondered whether this was the right time to bring up the "E4" and did anyway, just before my brain reached the decision that it was probably not a good idea at all!  "Ahhhh, the "E4" he muttered and regaled me with stories of a theme thereof, though he was somewhat taken aback when I informed him that the "E4" was a footpath and not a car. I liked this chap, but felt that if I'd mentioned East Barnet I would have heard stories of "derring-do" about the place from whence I came, so salt was taken with the old salt, regrettably as it turned out, without water!

For want of a better route, I walked in the general direction that my friend had waved me, desperately looking for a Southerly path. Nothing! For a while, I thought I may have found one but it petered out within five minutes and with a heart heavier than my rucksack, I headed back to Alones. Darkness falls at this time of year at around 8.30 PM and I absolutely had to be in Rodakino by then, though I was beginning to wonder "how"? It had only just gone 2PM, so I had plenty of time at my disposal, but was beginning to wish that I hadn't drowned my mobile 'phone. Rex needed to know that I was extremely unlikely to be in Rodakino at "between four and five PM", as I had assured him. Just East of the church on the main (only!) road in and out of the village there is a house with a clearing visible, which looked as though it may have been hiding a path. "Well, I might as well have a look", I thought, more through the want of a better plan than any belief that this was going to have a more satisfactory end than the path I had just tried. However, this looked promising; the path continued, crossing a river bed and it seemed to me that it was following a direction not dissimilar from the one that I wanted to be heading in. I took my third water-break of the day - the second had been just before I had reached Alones -and sipped my allotted three mouth-full's of water. The river-bed was virtually dry and what liquid there was, didn't look drinkable, so I made sure to reserve my limited water supply, just in case the rest of the day continued as it had begun. The bottle was emptying at an alarming rate! Had it sprung a leak? It appeared not, but I only had the spare 75cl bottle left and at this rate I would have a serious water-shortage before I reached my destination. I thought of walking back to Alones, though there had been no obvious source of water there and it was now siesta time so even my friend the sailor would be tucked up in bed. I sat and ruminated, wondering whether I was on the right trail and if I wasn't, how could I find that trail?  Then, I saw it. Like an oasis in a desert...a pole...a yellow pole...a yellow and black pole...an E4 way-mark pole!! I felt as if I had finally lost my virginity! Way hay!!!

An oasis, as it turned out, would have been a far better thing to have found, but for now I was thrilled-skinny! I had - a little over three and a half hours since setting-off from Velonado - found the E4. Photographs were taken, my left hand took hold of my right hand - neither of which had any idea of what the other was doing - and shook it, as if greeting a long-lost friend. I was tempted to return to Alones and awaken my elderly gent, but instead elected to ruffle my own hair and slap myself on my backpack. Oh happy days, oh happy moments. I had been lost, but now I was found. The path was clear, straight through the mountain in front of me, clear as anything could be, even the maps showed this.

Did I say "straight through the mountain"? Well, this is a possible route, but not the one I chose. Oh no, not I. Up, up and away I soared. Like an eagle...an eagle that had decided to walk... that had decided to walk and carry a 15Kg rucksack on its back and a 75cl bottle of water in its claw, in case it may need to moisten its beak in the hours ahead. A really stupid eagle!

Remember "Eddie the Eagle"? Eddie was a myopic ski-jumper, who was actually far better than he looked at doing what he did, which was a blessing, 'cause "good" was not something he looked at all. What he did was launch his frame from a ramp, some 60 metres through rarefied mountain air, landing with a thump on a snow covered landing below. The fact that everybody else went that extra 20 metres was really not the point; our Eddie was a brave man and despite his withered look (had he been to Velonado?), was quite an athlete; just not quite a good enough athlete.
Got the sympathy vote, did our Eddie, oh yes, got the sympathy vote all right! The goats up here weren't the sympathetic kind. Could bleat for Greece this lot and it appeared that a small minority of these nasty bleaters were following me from a great distance, as I headed upwards.  It was almost 3PM; what fun the next couple of hours held. Did I just say "next couple of hours"? Well make that nine and a half hours; it felt like nine and a half weeks! I just kept going...and going...and going, and by the time I was too tired to go any further, I realised that this fool on the foothill was neither half way up nor half way down the side of a mountain which was very likely to be far taller than it was willing to reveal. The maps had the crest of Mount Krioneritis - for that was its name - at 1312 metres (or in old currency, just over 4300 foot; around 30 foot lower than Britain's tallest mountain, Ben Nevis), but this wasn't an exercise in mountaineering was it? That's what gorges are for isn't it? To cut through mountains such as these? Every "peak" I arrived at, hid another one behind it and I was growing increasingly tired and irritated with life, the universe and goats (especially goats!).

It wasn't just the the goats or the climb that were bothering me however, more the fact that this ascent had so far taken me three hours; it was now 5PM and I had fully expected to be in Rodakino by this time, at the very latest. As my mind ruminated upon this, another pleasant thought sprung to mind, namely, "what goes up must come down...", and seeing that I needed to get down to sea-level, this could be a very long way down indeed! My brain sent messages to my legs. My legs accelerated! My muscles started complaining; my mind - a great complainer in its own right - told my weary body that the best way to get over this, was to get over this, as it were - as quickly as possible! This cycle of events went on and on!

How, I'll laugh about it all one day. I am fully aware that if I did this walk again it would take me less than half the time. The problem had become speed/ascent multiplied by three kilos per square goat (oh yes, I was making sense by now). Feeling the strain, I stopped every few seconds; sat-down every five minutes, and moaned; and sweated; and cursed; and sulked, as the goats looked-on. "When does this 'little' mountain reach it's peak?", I wondered as my fit reached its own simultaneously. The answer to the question was 7 o'clock! That's when I finally reached the top of the "hill" and found the church with its bell-tower and NO WATER. There had been a lastiko - that is to say a black pipe, which feeds the olive trees with water - running in a parallel direction to mine during most my ascent with just the hint of a promise that it would be attached to a tap, once I reached the top. Now I found its source, but sadly not a tap. I was by this time, totally out of liquid commodities, other than the three sip-full's I had spared for an occasion such as this. I drank greedily, or at least tried to, but before I knew it, I realised that this sucker had sucked his last drop. "Fear not!" I consoled myself "You are over the worst", and this was confirmed upon rounding the peak. There below me, some way away, were the twin villages; the Rodakinos, upper and lower.

The Great Descent
"Scrambling", that's what I like to do; it's the child in me. Ignoring the ancient road that skirted this side of the mountain (see picture),
click to enlarge
That's Mt. Krioneritis in the distance!
May I never see that mountain again... until the next time!
I decided to take the direct route down.  Below me I could see where the road would emerge from its bendy way, if I chose to walk upon it. Talk about circuitous! It would take me 15 minutes to walk each and every one of the dozen or so twists and bends that I would have to encounter on my way into Rodakino. No, far better to go down the way I had come up; i.e. straight! Bad move Jacko, me ol' son. This was a dry ski slope, covered in scree. I descended Eddie-the-Eagle-like, though with far less dexterity and with my rucksack propelling me forward (or downward!). Well, at least it was quick. It had to be, hadn't it? Three times I dropped what seemed like a 1000 metres in a very undignified manner. Twice I picked myself up, dusted myself down and started all over again. By the third time, I decided to be a little more careful as parts of me were coming off on the mountain-side and whilst I had little use for some of these parts - which after all would grow back one day - I could do without the pain. I looked Rodakino-way and there it was. Almost exactly where I had left it before starting on this slippery-slope. I looked for the segment of the road I had seen before I had set off on this mission improbable - the one that would have taken "fifteen minutes to walk!" -and there it was, almost exactly where I had seen it half an hour ago, or perhaps slightly further away! Was I falling up-hill? Could this be possible? "Newton, thou knoweth nothing!!!", I cursed.

If I'd thought that I'd had a few problems thus far, I had seen nothing yet and I was shortly to see even less! It was getting darker by the minute and it was also becoming obvious that I wouldn't get to the bottom of this long-and-winding-road before the sun had fallen behind the white mountains. Eight-thirty was my cut-off point and that time was rapidly approaching. It had gone half past seven when I finally reached the path that I had chosen not to walk!  "Everything's OK", I told myself. I had a torch, so I would be able to follow the path and so long as I didn't veer off it and its surface didn't deteriorate too much, I would be able to plot an arrival plan. Just so long as I didn't leave this road. This road, that ended at the coastal road leading into one of the Rodakinos. I knew this to be true, as I had met up with a shepherd, in one of the ubiquitous four-wheel off-road vehicles, that every Cretan seems to own. He had assured me that the old road that I had eventually joined ended up in Rodakino. I was just mustering the courage to ask whether he may have any water in his cab, when he drove off, leaving me high and dry! So, just stick to this road; under no circumstances leave it. The road quite clearly was heading in a South-Westerly(ish) direction and that was the bearing that I wanted. There were three "paths" - leading to God knows where - to my right and at the far side of one of them I could just make out a - now illuminated - Rodakino. My road continued South-West until all of a sudden it didn't! What I had assumed to be the end of this path and a joyful union with the main coastal road, wasn't any such thing. In what little light there was, I checked my compass, and yes, the path definitely headed East!

I am a firm believer in the old adage of "feeling the benefit". My eyes were becoming accustomed to this ever-diminishing light and as I fumbled in my bag for a better-scale map, I decided to leave my torch where it was for the moment. Wait until I really couldn't see before using it, that way it would be as if my path was floodlit; so in the bag my torch remained, or at least so I thought. I followed the road - despite it taking me away from my chosen destination - for about ten minutes. That's when it began to bear North-East and I just couldn't bear that! This was just too much for me. I was now travelling in absolutely the opposite direction from the one I needed to be heading. Straws and camels were springing to mind, when I suddenly remembered the three tributary roads that I had spotted a little while ago. Surely these were the ones I should have taken. After all, they seemed to head in the correct direction and so back I trudged. My mouth felt like it had swollen to three times its normal size; my lips were as dry as a bone and I knew that this was not the time for experimentation, but I could imagine the road I had been travelling on, going all the way back to Alones, and I knew there was absolutely nothing other than a mountain in-between here and there. It was now nine PM and time to illuminate the situation, so I reached in my bag for my torch and there it was...not! "Don't panic", a small voice pleaded!

Telling myself not to panic, always has the opposite effect on me. Any small fibre of my being which was not already in a state of high anxiety now jumped at the cue and decided that this was the time to be just that. I fumbled in my bag, throwing objects d'useless everywhere and looking for my torch. Why the hell was I carrying four t-shirts, a pair of jeans, two pairs of shorts, six pairs of socks, pants (not telling you!), two pairs of shoes, and other items such as these - plus a couple of things which I couldn't make out at all - when all I wanted was a torch and enough water to fill a swimming pool, or at least enough to fill my 75cl flask! I knew that I had no water, but now it appeared (!), that I no longer had a torch, either. Where was it? I trundled back to the place where I thought I had last seen it, and sure enough there was evidence of my having blotted the landscape here. My camera recharger was on the floor; I know this 'cause I stepped on it. Well that was useful. All I needed was a power-point and I could recharge the camera...which had a flash...had a flashlight... A flashlight! Aha! that's the thing to do. I got my camera out and took a couple of dozen (24) photos of the ground, hoping to illuminate the earth enough for me to find my torch! How ridiculous was this situation? Not a hope. I had never experienced darkness this absolute before. There was no moon to speak of and only the vague hint of artificial light from somewhere "over there"! I was almost blind as I took the first of the three "roads" that looked as though they headed directly into the thriving metropoloi of the Rodakinos. I took a picture of my watch and by looking at the viewfinder, discovered that it had gone 10PM I tried all three roads.

Two of these roads petered out into nothingness (what the hell were they there for?), and the last ran past a church - or at least I think it was a church, I couldn't see, you see - before ending in a somewhat alternative way to the other two. As I felt my way in the darkness, I could just make out the street lights of Rodakino, and considerably cheered by this, pushed-on. The next thing I knew, I was in mid-air for what seemed like an eternity but couldn't in fact have been more than a split-second. I landed with a thud, four foot (1.3 metres) below where I had taken-off from. I knew immediately that I had broken my leg. My left knee screamed at me in painful fury and just as I was about to answer it with a yelp of my own, cramp set in. Both calves were contorted into shapes that I couldn't have imagined they could make. I wanted to cry, but my body just couldn't spare the water and besides, I was incapable of making a noise, my throat and mouth being far too dry. I sat there in abject misery and realised that this is where they'd bury me...if they ever found me. It was now half past ten and this enforced stop suddenly became the best thing that could have happened. My broken knee-cap made a remarkable recovery and the cramps decided that they just didn't have the energy to continue. That was when I heard it. A sort of hissing sound. I have no fear of snakes, especially on an island that has no poisonous varieties other than the cat-snake - which is venomous, but keeps its fangs at the rear of its small mouth, and is therefore practically harmless to humans; you'd have to stick your little finger down its throat to get a nip out of this little kritter!

Anyhow, I recognised this sound. It was similar to the sound that a lastiko, being filled with water makes. I forgot my pains and shuffled and slithered towards its source, and found...a source of water! This time, I did "drink greedily". I had no mind for how unclean this water may be, I just stuck the pipe in my mouth and allowed the contents to (slowly) trickle into me. I knew that I shouldn't be drinking too quickly but believe me, given the chance I would have swallowed the contents of a small reservoir in seconds. A gushing torrent this was not, however; when I say "trickle", that is precisely what it did. It took over five minutes to refill my 75cl water bottle and 15 minutes to fill me (not in that order), but I was deeply grateful. I illuminated my watch with a cigarette lighter I had found in my bag, and discovered that it was now 11.05PM. I decided to follow the road I had been on two hours beforehand, wherever it should lead me. I was still desperately dehydrated but I could do previously unthinkable things, such as whistle and with a song on my lips, off I limped. It took just under an hour to reach the unlit main road, half of that time being taken up going in the same "wrong" direction, as before. This time however, I was not to be tempted by any of the tributary paths that tried to lure me. I hurt from top to bottom, in fact my bottom hurt more than anything other than my knee, which had started complaining again. By the time I saw the road, I was practically out of water again and trying to ignore my aching body, pressed on. I glanced at my watch, but could no longer see it; memories of this morning's escapades came flooding back. I would estimate that it took no longer than 20 minutes to find Rodakino from here and shortly after entering the lower half of the village I found a taverna (shut!) and a telephone. I needed a drink. Of anything. But first things first, ring Rex.

Rodakino to Koraka
Before my free-falling episode, I had been more worried about Rex than I had been about myself. He had no idea where I was; knowing only that I should have been wherever he was, at least seven hours ago. He'd be beside-himself with worry, wouldn't he? Finding a public pay-phone and remarkably having the means to work it (I had bought a phone-card in Rethymnon and it was still in my wallet!), I rang his mobile, the number of which I had carefully jotted down earlier that day. Not carefully enough it would seem. "The number you are dialling has not been recognised", I was told. I tried again...and again. No joy. Well, I knew where he should be. So I would just have to try to get there and hope that he was waiting for me.

I headed down towards the coast. It had passed midnight so nothing would be open. As I started the descent, I noticed out of the corner of an eye, another taverna; this time with the lights on. What trickery was this. I was desperate for water and here I was being tempted by a vision. I had lost any trust in any of my senses and very nearly ignored this apparent mirage! I decided I may as well give it a go; it was after all a mere 50 metres away, so off I trundled, hoping that if the lights weren't a figment of my imagination; that there maybe somebody inside willing to pour, poor dishevelled me a glass of water. I approached the door and saw a group of people inside. No, two or three groups. Was it possible? Was the place still open? To my eternal gratitude it was indeed open. As I entered the place grew hushed. "Albino" muttered one of the assembled. OK I was pale and exhausted, but that pale? I found the proprietor who looked at me with a mixture of caution and pity in his eyes. "Water", I tried to say. "Please", I attempted to add with a throat so dry I could hardly hear myself. I opened my wallet, making a point of flashing as many credit cards as I had on me (one!), thus demonstrating that I was willing to make this a commercial transaction. A bottle of water was fetched and a glass. I sank into a chair, shattered. The clock on the wall had the time at 12.15AM. This was truly miraculous. I hadn't for one moment imagined that any place would be open at this hour in a village as remote as this. I made a point of not guzzling-down the water - which had come in a 1.5 litre bottle - but failed, spilling half the contents of the first glass over my battle-scarred wounded knee. Thankfully the five minutes spent in this taverna had already made me somewhat of a fixture and the dozen sets of eyes that had followed my every move upon my arrival, now had other far more interesting things to look at, such as packs of cards. I felt enormously embarrassed for some reason but overwhelmingly grateful. My vocal cords having recovered, were able to ask for a "lemonita" (a lemonade which tastes like a lemonade!) and a beer. Oh I know, I shouldn't have, but I was suddenly feeling almost human. My host declined my offer to buy everybody in the place a drink, much to the disappointment of a couple in card school number two, situated by the far window. The beer and lemonita arrived and I took myself to the toilet. I couldn't have passed water if my life had depended on it. No, it was a mirror that I needed.

If I had thought that I'd looked rough when I awoke that morning, the reflection which  stared back at me now, showed what a vision of beauty I had been compared to the mess that was my reflection. I could see what they had meant by "albino" too. I was covered in salt. My hair - including eyebrows - was white with it; my shirt which I could have sworn had been blue when I had put it on that morning, was now a chalky colour. I returned to my table and finished-off my various drinks. It was now past 1AM and time to find Rex. The taverna was closing anyhow, when it occurred to me that I may not be able to locate either Rex, or the hotel he was supposedly staying at...or Koraka itself for that matter. Would they be open at this time of night. The sign on the taverna door mentioned "rooms". In fact upon second glance at the sign, I saw that the "taverna" was in fact the restaurant of an hotel. "The Hotel Saint George". Tricky one this. I would dearly have loved to have stayed here tonight, but I had a Rex to find. I approached the owner of the taverna (Petros was his name), and told him my sad tale. He was not too happy at first that I had chosen to stay elsewhere that night, but once I had explained the situation he offered me the perfect solution. He explained to me where Mr Zographakis' nephew's  hotel was situated, but offered me the option that should I fail to find it open (Koraka/the hotel/Pandora's box; what did I care?) I could come back, knock on his door and a room would  be found for me. What a gent! I was shocked to find my tear-ducts were working again.

I needed to find out the situation down at the coast quickly, and so it was that I hurried-off to Koraka. There are quite a few hotels down here and as I passed one of them leading to the beach a car pulled up behind me. I had seen this very same car travelling in the opposite direction some seconds earlier. The driver now called to me. "Are you Stelios?", Was I?   Yes! "That's me", I replied. "Your friend has been waiting for you." said the driver. My luck had changed. This was a fabulous place with people quite literally going out of their way to help. "Jump in", I was told.

Now forgive me for this - hybris I think it's called - but I had set-off from Velonado, over twelve hours before, and I was no more than half a kilometre from my ultimate destination. As tempting as it was and as much as my weary body protested, there was absolutely no way that I wasn't going to walk this final stretch. I apologised profusely and thanked him for his extremely kind offer, but I was going to walk to that hotel if it killed me. With a shrug and directions to exactly where the hotel was, my kind-hearted friend left me. I had a little trouble finding the correct hotel, but spotted our car outside and a light on inside, which suggested signs of life within. There were two men sitting at the bar and a gentle tap on the window brought the proprietor (Mr Zographakis' nephew, Vardis), out to greet me and buy me a beer. Just one I had...honest...and a great conversation with the two chaps, who had been genuinely worried about me. Talking of "worried"; where was Rex? He'd be out of his mind with anxiety. With apologies for terminating the conversation I asked to be shown to our room. Approaching it, I heard a familiar sound. A small child was playing trombone! I opened the bedroom door, and there he was; my friend, asleep and snoring!

Stelios Jackson's sponsor :
The Hellenic Bookservice - Britain's Greek (and Latin) bookshop. Est. 1966
© Stelios Jackson & interkriti

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Skaldic Poetry of the Scandinavian Middle Ages

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Anon Sól 71VII

Carolyne Larrington and Peter Robinson (eds) 2007, ‘Anonymous Poems, Sólarljóð 71’ in Margaret Clunies Ross (ed.), Poetry on Christian Subjects. Skaldic Poetry of the Scandinavian Middle Ages 7. Turnhout: Brepols, pp. 346-7.

Anonymous PoemsSólarljóð

text and translation

Menn sá ek þá,        er mjök höfðu
        hungri farit hörund;
englar guðs        lutu öllum þeim;
        þat er it æzta unað.

Ek sá menn þá, er mjök höfðu farit hörund hungri; englar guðs lutu þeim öllum; þat er it æzta unað.
‘I saw men then who had greatly afflicted their flesh with hunger; God’s angels bowed to them all; that is the highest delight.

notes and context

[5-6]: These ll. are missing or semi-legible in 167b 6ˣ due to a damaged leaf. For praise of the ascetic life, cf. Hsv 116. — [6]: Emendation is required here. It is necessary to insert the n. def. art. it to accompany æzta n. nom. sg. weak adj.

Text is based on reconstruction from the base text and variant apparatus and may contain alternative spellings and other normalisations not visible in the manuscript text. Transcriptions may not have been checked and should not be cited.

editions and texts

Skj: Anonyme digte og vers [XII], G [6]. Sólarljóð 71: AI, 638, BI, 647, Skald I, 315, NN §2564D; Bugge 1867, 368, Falk 1914, 45, Björn M. Ólsen 1915, 21, Fidjestøl 1979, 69, Njörður Njarðvík 1991, 69, Njörður Njarðvík 1993, 77, 143.

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SKOA Trucks Release The New Vertex

SKOA has been making top quality, high performing downhill trucks for a few years now. After their previous releases, Stream 7 and M.Spec, they have a new truck to offer!

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The Skoa Vertex fills the gap between M.Spec and Stream7. It is their newest addition to the SKOA family and blends race winning characteristics to give great stability during high speed, smooth sliding, good control over grip and less hard hookup than the M.Spec.

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  • 172mm or 178mm
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  • SKOA EUROTHANE 90a bushings – tall/reg in the front and back
  • 5 axis CNC machined
  • Made in Germany

More info on SKOA’s website here.


text:
Newton’s 2018 IDF WC Australia // April 6th – 8th // Registration Open Now

Newton’s in Bathurst, Australia, has long been one of the more revered tracks and events of the world race scene. This year the event will take place from April 6th – 8th, 2018 and will be recognized as an IDF World Cup event.

* Feature image from Newton’s Facebook Page.

Want to get a feel for the track, here’s the latest raw run of Mitch Thompson during a recent national holiday taking a cheeky flag run.

Check out one of the most classic runs from Bathurst 2013. It’s a favorite so we’re posting it again, #sorrynotsorry. Bricin Striker Lyons on the mic, Alexander Horthe, Adam Yates, Kyle Martin, Matt Kienzle on the line. Matt K ripping on some Paris Trucks goes from 3rd to 1st with a double draft and a little flip of the bird for the win…. #castisfast!

Here’s one more from the Skate[Slate} Archives with Kevin Reimer in 2009, thanks to Dan Pape:

Finally, here’s the 2017 recap video from IDF:

Get all the details on the event and find registration on the IDF website.

Or hit up the Newton’s Facebook page here.


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pictured here Glass eyes on wire flat shape diameter 6 mm Transparent 25 pairs

Glass eyes on wire flat shape diameter 6 mm Transparent 25 pairs

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Eyes are suitable for author′s painting!!!

Glass eyes for knitted and felted toys, dolls, amigurumi. Glass eyes have a medium-hardness wire in the mount, if necessary, it can be bent into a loop. Glass eyes can be glued with super-glue or sewn into using a preformed loop.
Manufacturer: China
Material: Glass
The price is for 25 pairs (i.e. 50 pcs.).

Budget option for inexpensive toys.

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FOR RESIDENTS OF BELARUS, KAZAKHSTAN: before placing an order, consider for yourself how beneficial it will be for you to send from Ukraine (at least $5).
If the ratio of `shipment order` suits you - place it, we will do our best to send you the order as soon as possible (after the bank transfer).
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text:
S&K Vertical's head projects Julia Andreeva attended the meeting of the Committee on Intracorporate Communications

7 july 2017

On July 4, a meeting of the committee on intracorporate communications of the Managers Association took place. The topic for discussion was "Social networks: the responsibility of employees for disclosure of information regarding their employer. Law or Good will».

Julia Andreeva, head of projects at S&K Vertical, served as the meeting's expert and disclosed the issues as to how do the companies regulate their employees' behavior in social networks as well as the grounds of liability for those employees who violate corporate information security rules. In addition, the participants of the meeting have discussed "high-profile" cases regarding the dismissal of top managers of the largest companies in connection with their activity in social networks, as well as important aspects of the procedure for dismissal in similar situations.

Alexey Venediktov (Ekho Moskvy), Demyan Kudryavtsev (Vedomosti), Anastasia Gusentsova (Vimpelcom) and Andrey Volkov (Leroy Merlin Vostok) took part in the discussion.

All events

Нажимая "Хорошо", вы соглашаетесь с использованием нами инструментов аналитики и организации поддержки.


text:
Audition for Skylark Dance Company

📌 Due to high interest, we are delighted to release the second date for the Skylark Dance Company auditions!

If you didn’t get a chance to participate in the first round, this is your chance!

As a member of Skylark Dance Company you will be able to learn various dance techniques, improve your performance skills and participate in dance events and competitions.

To sign up for the audition please contact

Step into Dance Ambassador 2020

Exciting News! We are really proud of our student Isabel who was named the Step into Dance Ambassador 2020! 🌟

This scheme provides talented and enthusiastic young people with the opportunity to learn new skills that will equip them to support a range of events, projects and performances throughout the academic year.

Step into Dance is a Royal Academy of Dance programme in partnership with the Jack Petchey Foundation.

Congratulations Isabel and good luck! 👏

Merry Christmas

🎄Merry Christmas!

May this festive season sparkle and shine,
May all of your wishes and dreams come true,
And may you feel this happiness all year around.

We look forward to seeing you in the New Year. The classes will resume on 6th January.

Best wishes,

The Skylark Team ❤

Russian Santa

🎄🎁🎉 Christmas is almost upon us but (before his busy night) Russian Santa took a break from his preparations to pay our Skylarks a visit.

Remember to leave him and the reindeer a treat tonight 😉

We hope you all enjoy the holidays and have a magical Christmas! ❄

New Skylark Dance Company

🌟 Today we held our first auditions for the new Skylark Dance Company and saw some truly amazing routines, from dancers across the age groups.

We look forward to seeing more of you in the January round. If you want to know more or register your interest, then email us on ➡

Book your ticket

Skylark School of Dance present the world premiere of their children’s ballet The Golden Key, Aleksey Tolstoy’s Soviet re-imagining of Pinocchio. Follow the adventures of puppet-brought-to-life Buratino, as he tries to unlock the secrets of his makers workshop. From enchanted marionettes to ancient turtles – magical friends are there to guide him in his quest. Will Buratino find the answers he seeks? All will be revealed this summer.,

Tickets £16.50
Churchill Friend and Sidekick £5.00 off
Concessions (including children under age of 16) £11.50


text:
Dani Karavan — Adama

Urban art, drawing, installation, sculpture

Dani Karavan

Past: October 13, 2018 → February 2, 2019

Karavan inscribes in landscape human signs, that is, those of both reason and sacredness. Georges Duby

The gallery is pleased to present an exhibition of the artist Dani Karavan entitled Adama, “Earth” in Hebrew, a new tribute to the Israeli artist whose work has been exhibited and supported by the gallery since the exhibition “Questions d’urbanité” in the 80s, in which the gallery presented, alongside Jean-Pierre Raynaud’s and Gérard Singer’s works, his very first Plastilin model and drawings of his Axe Majeur.

A 3km-long urban and environmental sculpture, on the cusp of sculpture, landscape, urbanism, and architecture, the Axe Majeur was conceived to link the new city of Cergy-Pontoise to one of the most beautiful landscapes of Ile-de-France, in the central axis of Paris and its landmark areas of La Défense, the Arc de Triomphe and the Pyramide of the Louvre. Axe Majeur consists of 12 stations — a highly symbolical number — 11 of which are completed today.

In order to attract audiences’ attention to this major work, infused with space and time, developed in sustainable form since 1980 and still ongoing in 2018, the gallery chose to present an 8-meter-long model, so as to share the entire span of the artist’s vision, his capacity to offer a landscape imbued with memory that also functions as a line of perspective. In addition to this major work, a wall of photos will present the artist’s innumerable creations throughout the world, realized in parallel with the construction of the Axe Majeur.

Fifty years after the creation of his first environmental sculpture entitled Neguev Monument (1963-1968), set in the middle of the Israeli desert, the gallery will exhibit all of Karavan’s latest sculptures, small and large, as well as his mud-brick bas-reliefs. These mud-brick sculptures are reminiscent of the earthen villages of his childhood, whose constructions were conceived as inhabitable sculptures since the rooms and the furniture were entirely made of earth, as were some vestiges of Canaanite and Isrealite constructions dating from 1500 to 3000 years ago.

Thanks to the innovating mud-brick technique in the bas-reliefs and sculptures, realized with the help of the artisan Rachid Mizrahi and the artist’s model maker Anne Tamisier, Dani Karavan was able to give birth to these works, conjuring earthen architectures common to several cultures and the universality that links these cultures together. Some of these works were on temporary loan to the Musée d’Art moderne of Céret in 2015, but now they are being presented in their entirety at the gallery, which has supported the whole of their conception and production for the past three decades. Speaking about these earth-architectures of human scale, the artist made these comments:

“Fifty years after the Neguev Monument I felt the need to come back to works of smaller dimensions, to chamber music as it were. I started with the right material. In fact, for me, all materials are appropriate, and I have used many throughout my artistic life. But I wanted to discover new ones and this is when a new path opened for me: working with earth. I was thrilled by the idea.”

Constantly working with simple and universal shapes, in the lineage of the spatial sculptures of the great 20th century sculptors such as Brancusi, Nogushi, and Giacometti, Dani Karavan has always retained his fundamentally childlike, innocent, and pacifist nature, as he describes it himself:

“I was born on the Mediterranean shore, I have walked in dunes, along olive trees, mountains and valleys that survived all these horrible wars. Memory has become part of my own being, and if memory is forgotten, one loses direction, and path.”

1%20b%20karavan%20 1 medium
Dani Karavan, Metuman (Octogone), 2014 Earth sculpture — 180 × ø 50 cm Jeanne Bucher Jaeger, Paris / © G. Poncet

According to Germain Viatte, who has taken part in all the contemporary art adventures in France for half a century and has always shown a very strong interest in museums of civilization, these new works seem like “a sort of great ‘primer of his world-description,’ a way to outdo oneself that the artist has constantly refined and specified while applying it to very diverse geographical and historical situations.” Most cultures have erected — since prehistory — anthropomorphous poles, totems incarnating animal spirits and invoking the dead, votive steles of conquests and power, cairn along undifferentiated spaces, so as to create a dialogue with winds and to measure up to time, the course of the sun and the stars; they always come to establish, close to sacred and living spaces, humanity’s assurance, its capacity to dialogue with the powers of nature. The vertical stele shows the ascending desire to escape from gravity and to place humans on an equal footing with trees and mountains, between earth and sky.”

This set of sculptures, like steles, oscillating between ochre and pink hues, with a smooth surface or gritty insides, are similar to houses, like the traditional houses or historical villages that have been unearthed thanks to the many archeological excavations in Israel and Palestine, in Cyprus, in Africa and in Morocco, where the techniques of mud-brick were so advanced. As Germain Viatte describes them in his text Steles and Reliefs, “these constructions speak to us clearly while remaining secretive. Always simple, of elementary appearance, their shape can be elaborate like Metuman (Octogone), or the double sinusoids of Knisa (Entry), or even the narrow cask of Shovach (Dovecot). What matters is always their growing impetus, those of Aliya (Ascension), of Tfi (Prayer), of the five stacked openings of Halonot (Windows) or that of Haritz (Slit), arrow sharp; and finally the openings signifying the astral oculus, the multiple view, the access, the crossing, the aim, the direct penetration or the oblique one like in Mabat (View). They have the rhythmical familiarity of a human processional cortege. They manifest true being. Their titles illuminate the intention without really giving it away; rather, they suggest, and keep, for us, the esoteric aspect of their formulation in Hebrew.”

Dani Karavan’s bas-reliefs are the writing of landscapes, the murmur of water, the undulations of sand dunes, the structures of prehistoric tents, habitats of early men; their titles are enlightening: Ha’acher (The Other), Vayachaloku (Sharing), Meshulashim (Triangles), Sefer Patuach (Open Book) or apparently contradictory equivalences Shakua and Bolet (Negative and Positive). For all these works Dani Karavan has chosen the material of unifying earth, able to transmit a universal message of peace. They can thus complete and give roots to his works from the 50s, in which Karavan liked to paint villages close to his childhood kibbutz.

Karavan always works on each site very specifically; each detail of the gallery exhibition has been conceived by the artist, such as the mirror/pillars that send back, through their many reflections, the earth’s structures and the multiplicity of framings and images.

15%20karavan%20 1 medium
Dani Karavan, Meshulashim (Triangles), 2014 Earth sculpture — 50 × 60 × 5 cm Jeanne Bucher Jaeger, Paris / © G. Poncet

Dani Karavan

After studying art in Tel-Aviv, Jerusalem, Florence and Paris, Dani Karavan, born in 1930 in Tel-Aviv, began creating theatre, opera, and dance sets in the 1960s, particularly for the Martha Graham Dance Company. His work quickly shifted towards environmental sculpture; the Neguev Monument was its first emblematic expression, and earned him international recognition. His deeply humanist works can be found throughout the world, deriving their materials from natural elements such as sand, wood, water, wind, and light. Conceived as spaces meant to conjure up memory, commemorate history, underline the destiny of a particular site, pay tribute, and interrogate the human condition, they are also places for living, thinking, reflecting, and communing with nature.

In 1976 the artist represented Israel at the Venice Biennial, and one year later participated in the Kassel Documenta 6. The gallery exhibited his works as early as the 1980s, when he started his Axe Majeur in Cergy-Pontoise, and exhibited on several occasions throughout the years his Plastiline, bronze or marble models, his drawings, and his neon works.

Dani Karavan is the recipient of prestigious international prizes such as the Israel Prize (1977); the Silver Medal for Plastic Arts of the French Academy of Architecture (1992); the Goslar Kaiser Ring for Visual Art, Germany (1996); the first Unesco’s Artist of Peace (1996); Praemium Imperiale — the Nobel Prize for the Arts, Japan (1998); the Goethe Medal, Germany (1999); Premio Michelangelo, Carrara, Italy (2005); and the French “Légion d’Honneur” (2014).

His major works include “the Neguev Monument » (1963-1968) in Israel; the Axe Majeur in Cergy Pontoise, France; Line 1,2,3+1+1=5 in Italy, at the Fattoria di Celle (Pistoia,1982-2000); The Way of the Human Rights in Nuremberg (1989-1993); Passages — Homage to Walter Benjamin (1990-1994, Portbou, Spain); Murou Art Forest (1998-2006, Murou, Japan); the Memorial to the Sinti-Roma (1999-2012, Berlin, Germany); and the Square of Culture (2005-2012, Tel Aviv, Israel). Karavan’s works have been exhibited in numerous museums in the world such as the Martin-Gropius Bau in Berlin, the Tel Aviv Museum of Art, the Musem of Modern Art in Kamakura in Japan, the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence, the Musée d’art moderne de la Ville de Paris, and the Palace of Versailles.

In order to discover Dani Karavan’s works in his homeland, a trip to Israel has been planned by the gallery from September 23 to September 28 in the company of a few enthusiasts who wished to live that experience. Two guided visits of the Axe Majeur with Dani Karavan have also been organized with the city of Cergy-Pontoise, on October 14 and November 25.

Please contact the gallery if you wish to know more about these events.

03 Le Marais Zoom in 03 Le Marais Zoom out

5 & 7, rue de Saintonge

75003 Paris

T. 01 42 72 60 42 — F. 01 42 72 60 49

Saint-Sébastien – Froissart

Opening hours

Tuesday – Saturday, 10 AM – 7 PM
Please note that the gallery is temporarily closed to the public (march 2020)

The artist

  • Dani Karavan


text:
Quantum mechanics

download report

Transcript Quantum mechanics

Quantum Mechanics
Noel M. O’Boyle
Apr 2010
Postgrad course on Comp Chem
Overview of QM methods
(electron density)
Including correlation
HF (“ab initio”)
What can be calculated?
Molecular orbitals and their energies
Electron density
Molecular geometry
Relative energies of two molecules
NMR shifts
IR and Raman frequencies and normal modes
Electronic transitions (UV-Vis absorption spectrum), associated
changes in electron density, optical rotation
Ionisation potential, electron affinity, heat of formation
Transition states, activation energy
Charge distribution
Interaction energy between two molecules
Solvation energy
How accurately can it be calculated?...
• Essentials of Computational Chemistry,
Christopher Cramer
• Introduction to Computational Chemistry,
Frank Jensen
• Molecular Modelling: Principles and
Applications, Andrew Leach
• Computational Organic Chemistry, Steven
Bachrach (http://comporgchem.com/blog/)
• (coming soon) Molecular Modelling Basics,
Jan Jensen (http://molecularmodelingbasics.blogspot.com/)
• Quantum Mechanics, Tim Clark, Section 7.4 in Cheminformatics
– A Textbook, Ed. Gasteiger and Engel
The Wavefunction
• The wavefunction completely describes the properties of a quantum
mechanical (QM) system
• Ψ(r), Psi
– It has a value at every point in 3D space
• By applying various operators to the wavefunction, we can calculate
properties of the system
• The Hamiltonian operator (Ĥ) gives the energy
of the system
ĤΨ=EΨ (the Schrödinger equation)
• ρ = |Ψ|2
“electron density” or “square or the
A probability density (3D)
Integrate over a certain volume to find the
probability of finding an electron in that volume
It follows that ∫|Ψ|2dr = N (number of electrons)
Credit: OtherDrK (Flickr)
Solving the Schrodinger equation
• Born-Oppenheimer approximation
– Since electron motion is so rapid compared to nuclear motion,
consider the nuclei as fixed
– This allows us to simplify the Hamilitonian
• Variational Principle
– The true energy of a QM system (as given by the Hamilitonian
operator) is always less than the energy found if the Hamilitonian is
applied to an incorrect wavefunction
– To find the true wavefunction, make a reasonable guess and then
keep altering it to minimise the energy
• Hartree-Fock (HF) theory
– HF theory neglects electron correlation in multi-electron systems
– Instead, we imagine each electron interacting with a static field of
all of the other electrons
– According to the variational principle, the lowest energy will can get
with HF theory will always be greater than the true energy of the
• The difference is the correlation energy
Expressing a vector in terms of a basis
(3.5, 1.5)
v = 3.5i + 1.5j
Linear combination of atomic orbitals (LCAO)
• The LCAO approximation involves expressing (“expanding”) each
molecular orbital (ψ) as a sum of “basis set functions” (φx) centered
on each atom
Let’s use this parabola for our basis set functions, φx
   cii  1.21  102  123
Self-consistent field (SCF) procedure
• Based on the variational principle and the LCAO approach, a
set of equations can be derived that allow the calculation of the
molecular orbital coefficients (cx on previous slide)
– Roothaan-Hall equations
• The catch is that terms in the equations are weighed by
elements of a density matrix P
– But the elements of P can only be computed if molecular orbitals
are known
• But finding the molecular orbitals requires solving the Roothaan-Hall
• An iterative procedure is used to get around this
Make an initial guess of the values of cx
Use these to calculate the elements of P
Solve the Roothaan-Hall equations to give new values for cx
Use these new values to calculate the elements of P
If the new P is not sufficiently similar to the old P, repeat until it
• SCF not guaranteed to converge, espec. if initial guess is poor
Basis sets
• Any set of mathematical functions can be used as a basis
– How many functions should we use? Which functions should we use?
• The larger (i.e. the more components in) the basis set...
– The better the wavefunction can be described
• And the closer the energy converges towards the limit of that method
– The slower the calculation – N4 integrals (bottleneck)
• We would like to use as small a basis set as possible and still
describe the wavefunction well
– A good solution is to use functions that have shape similar to s, p, d and f
orbitals and are centered on each of the atoms
– Slater-Type Orbitals (STOs)
• Radial decay follows e-r
• We would like to be able to calculate all of the integrals
– Gaussian-Type Orbitals (GTOs) are similar to STOs but have a radial term
following e-r^2
• More efficient to calculate in integrals but have the wrong shape so...
– Replace each STO with a sum of 3 Gaussian-Type Orbitals (GTOs)
Radial decay of GTO vs STO
Image Credit: Essentials of Computational Chemistry, Chris Cramer, Wiley, 2nd Edn.
How a sum of three GTOs can approximate a STO
Image Credit: Essentials of Computational Chemistry, Chris Cramer, Wiley, 2nd Edn.
STO-3G Basis Set
• A minimal basis set, i.e. it has one basis
function per orbital
– Example: for Li-H, there would be 6 basis
functions in total
• 1s on H & 1s, 2s, 2px, 2py and 2pz on the Li
• Each basis function is a fixed sum of 3
Gaussian functions whose coefficients are
optimised to match a STO
– Hence the name
• A minimal basis set is not sufficient to
describe the wavefunction
– However, it may be useful to do a quick initial
geometry optimisation
Pople’s split-valence basis sets
Core orbitals are only weakly affected by binding, whereas valence orbitals can
vary widely
Split-valence basis sets: 3-21G, 6-21G, 4-31G, 6-31G, 6-311G
“3-21G” implies that each core orbital is represented by single basis function (a sum of
3 GTOs as for STO-3G) but each valence orbital is represented by two basis functions
(the first a sum of 2 GTOs, the other a single GTO)
In general, molecular orbitals cannot be described just in terms of the atomic
orbitals of the atoms
So we should enable additional flexibility for representing valence orbitals
E.g. A HF calculation for NH3 with an infinite basis set just consisting of s and p
functions predicts that the planar geometry is a minimum
Polarisation functions need to be added, corresponding to atomic orbitals of
higher angular momentum (e.g. d, f, etc.)
6-31G(d) (“6-31G*”), indicates that d orbitals are added to heavy atoms
This basis set is a sort of standard for general purpose calculations
6-31G(3d2fg, 2pd) would indicate that that heavy atoms were polarised by 3 functions,
2 f, one g, while hydrogen atoms were polarised by 2 p and one d.
Highest energy MOs of anions and highly excited electronic states tend to be
very diffuse (tail off very slowly as the distance to the molecules increases)
Add diffuse basis functions: 6-31+G(d), 6-311++G(3df,2pd)
A single “+” indicates that heavy atoms have been augmented with an additional
diffuse s and a set of diffuse p basis functions; another “+” indicates that hydrogen
atoms have also been augmented
Handling open-shell systems
• Restricted Hartree-Fock (RHF or just HF)
– Closed-shell systems, all electrons paired
• Two approaches to handle unpaired electrons
• Restricted Open-shell HF (ROHF)
– An approximation that reuses the RHF code but
handle the unpaired electron using two paired ½
– Fails to account for spin polarization
• Unrestricted HF (UHF)
– The SCF is carried out separately for all electrons
of one spin
– Corresponding α and β electrons will have
different spatial distribution
– Calculations take twice as long
– Level of Theory/Basis set
– Where “Level of Theory” simply means the type of
– E.g. HF/3-21G or UHF/6-31G(d)
• Compared to energies, geometry is much
less sensitive to the theoretical level
– So high-level calculations are often carried out
at geometries optimised at a lower level
– LOT2/BS2//LOT1/BS1
– E.g. HF/6-311+G(d)//HF/6-31G
Overview of QM methods
(electron density)
Including correlation
HF (“ab initio”)


text:
Deafheaven – Sunbather

This is probably my first review in quite sometime. Check out Deafheaven‘s new record Sunbather, released via Deathwish Inc.

01 – Dream House
02 – Irresistible
03 – Sunbather
04 – Please Remember
05 – Vertigo
06 – Windows
07 – The Pecan Tree

Black metal is no longer a showcase of uber conservatism. With the advent of the millennium, several bands within the genre have broken down the walls of self-imposed reservation and settled on new terrain. Imbibing and constructing ingenuity in the process. This has resulted in the conception of several brilliant sub-genres. Be it the hyper theological approach of Deathspell Omega, the intellectualism of Blut Aus Nord, the subliminal melody of Agalloch ,the industrial assault of an Anaal Nathrakh record or the proclivity to experimentalism of Krallice. It is finally coming of age. But just like any conservative lot, some people are always up in arms when an inevitable change is ushered in. In that case what difference is it then? Black metal was borne of the recognition to undivided hate towards religion and many similar conformist constructs. If that is the case, then the purists who argue for the supposed dilution of the black metal ethos are none the wiser than the very source of their inspiration. Giving in to a certain set of standards rather than letting music have its way.  Sometimes we metalheads get lost in our own little worlds, far too often, despite the fact that our music is for the most part heavily inspired by the harsh reality of life. A pretentious callousness.

At the center of all said criticism and hipster hate are two comparatively newer bands from the USBM scene (supposedly looked down upon as well). Deafheaven and Liturgy. The  latter boasts of everything “transcendental” and make a complete mockery of themselves. Whatever quality inherent to their music is drowned out by their over the top flamboyance. Deafheaven on the other hand are quite bearers of their output. Enmeshing black metal with screamo and post rock-ish tendencies, they came out with first proper full length “Roads to Judah” after the already good demo.  In effect, they used black metal as a mere template to forward their approach. Come 2013 and they have just about released their third full length titled Sunbather.

Pink artwork and an album title that might as well befit an indie rock album serves best as a statement or much like a retort to all their detractors and purist stereotypes. But the album is much more than a mere statement, it is an amalgam of blissful melody juxtaposed against the limiting framework of the genre they primarily indulge in. While its predecessor had a much more somber vibe, Sunbather delves on the duality of perfection. Conceptually the album deals with man’s obsession with perfection. That bit of mild OCD that is in all of us. A philosophical tour on how perfection is a myth and is something we introspect and wean out later. This bit of philosophy drives the band to explore two major emotions, hope and despair. In turn, this calls for melody that is neither overtly upbeat nor completely harrowing. A sort of ambivalence that needs to be addressed with a certain subtlety. And that is precisely where the band truly shines. The riffs although not entirely reliant on its uniqueness and memorability, instead inculcate deep melodic segments that conjure an atmosphere that does not take any overarching central theme (neither hope nor despair). The memorability here, lies in the artfully contrived atmosphere that surrounds it.  The screamo tinged vocals on the other hand do not serve to take the cake, but serve to further heighten this state of self evaluation brought on by these emotions. There is no prima donna here it is all just interplay, and some of the finest of late.

Yet again, as much as I may shower the album with praise, the level of mentioned intensity is not always maintained throughout. Sunbather is broken down by intros which quite obviously overstay their welcome. Understandably so, they give us breathing space and bridge the lyrical concept, yet again one cannot discount the fact that it gives replayability a shot in the arm. After the first two listens you are likely to skip both Please Remember and Windows. Maybe a person’s patience does play a trick or two here, but everybody enters a post -black metal/whatever record with tons of patience. And that gets stretched beyond reason. To further compound this issue the track Vertigo, seems to prolong the induced disinterest initiated by Please Remember. Although Vertigo develops with time, the initial segment can frankly come off as very flat indeed.

That said, there is nothing short of calculated brilliance on the other three actual tracks with the title track being the best of the lot. On the other hand the latter half of The Pecan Tree has probably the best Deafheaven music made till date. Sunbather as a record, conclusively proves the band’s ability to write quality metal, giving a nod and at the same time ignoring, genre constraints. A few unintended blemishes do not compromise the heartfelt intent here. Another step before they fully realize themselves.  Sunbather thus breaks down barriers of everything conventional set down by the unconventional. Metal as always, still shines through and that is all that really counts.

One thought on “Deafheaven – Sunbather

  1. Amazingly well-written. I could not agree with your sentiments any more. I really like how the band is pushing away from the archetype of what purists think “black metal should be” and going more for, as Ghandi once said, “be the change you wish to see”. By creating a new and bright identity within the, usual, dark world of black metal. Deafheaven really have turned a new corner with this release for me. I found their previous releases to be rather ho-hum, as their passages were broken up into a “post-rock/black metal/post-rock/black metal” format. Then Sunbather came out and completely melded the two so well.

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Investment funds: a new way of funding for non-profits?

This article by ProBono Australia asks the question – should Australian charities consider creating their own investment funds? Save the Children hopes its new impact investment fund will inspire other…

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Available to all Basic and Advanced Members, The News Hub brings you the best of what you need to know about the non-profit industry from across the web, to save you the time searching for it. See all our News Hub resources here.

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Available to Advanced Members only, The Knowledge Hub is the centre for expert information prepared specifically for you by our service partners.

We believe education and knowledge are the key ingredients for a successful non-profit.

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Join Small Non-Profits Founder Bianca Crocker as she talks to some of the most inspiring and interesting personalities in the small non-profit community.

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This Week In SEO 36
Google Core Algorithm Update, WordPress Security Update, and Site Speed

Google Core Ranking Algorithm Update!

Well! I hope you enjoyed your quiet and drama-free SEO beginning of the year, because that time is definitely past!

Recently, Algoroo, Mozcast, and other SERP-craziness measurements started recording the most significant movements in a very long time.

Is it Penguin? Is it PENGUIN???

Zineb Ait Bahajji (in French), Gary Illyes and John Mueller of Google have confirmed on Twitter that what webmasters were seeing over the weekend was not the Penguin update we are expecting, but rather a core ranking algorithm update.

Damn! Our money was on Penguin.

As far as what is ACTUALLY impacted by this non-penguin update… the details are still being analyzed. There’s a lot of speculation and not a lot of clear answers, like this observation from Yoast:

. Some of the biggest winners are category URLs on sites that have good optimization for their categories and good internal linking, like Mashable. So… This might be a good time to revisit your Category SEO tactics.

So… keep staying tuned. We will continue to monitor this algorithm update (as well as the still-impending Penguin update) and break it down for you here.

Current Winners and Losers from the Algorithm Update

This article will be a bit more interesting if you read the original “Winners and Losers” article by SearchMetrics, from which this article builds upon.

I love looking at the SearchMetrics data when a big update comes through, to see which sites benefitted and which sites were smacked down. Bartosz has done the legwork here in analyzing the winners and losers so far, and has some very interesting thoughts on the details of the algorithm update (which not everyone agrees with–it’s still early).

  • it definitely wasn’t Google Penguin 4.0 🙂
  • it wasn’t link oriented
  • it was keyword, not domain oriented, if your website got hit, it was
  • most probably not because of the issues with your domain
  • most of the keywords affected were brands
  • if your website lost ranking for a brand related query, most probably
    it was replaced with a better, broader fit

Some interesting thoughts here, I really recommend checking out this in-depth defense of his thesis, complete with research and search metrics data to back up his claims.

Update Your WordPress Site or Get Spammed

wp security

This is a public service announcement for you WordPress users: WordPress 4.4–the newest update, patches up some serious security issues and you should download it right away!

I’ve seen sites that have been hacked, and it’s not pretty. Not only do spammy pages get built onto your domain, but thousands and thousands of crap links are built to those pages and it takes a lot of effort to scrub your domain clean afterward.

Better to fix up your security in the first place!

This is a security release for all previous versions and we strongly encourage you to update your sites immediately.

WordPress versions 4.4 and earlier are affected by a cross-site scripting vulnerability that could allow a site to be compromised.

How to Speed Up Your Website Without Causing A Disaster

Site speed is something I highly recommend people pay attention to, mostly because it’s often overlooked and it really can impact a site.

This post is interesting because it’s not just a shallow “13 tricks for speeding up your website” kind of article, but is instead very thoughtful and dense. Not the kind of tips you’re used to seeing, but rather an in-depth discussion on not only the how but the WHY of paying attention to site speed.

Highly recommended.

Let’s take a look at some recommendations made by Ilya Grigorik, a Google Web Performance Engineer. He works on browsers and page speed tools and esoteric stuff most of us will never need to know about. You can read his ebook online for free and learn far more about TCP and HTTP than I can possibly tell you.

Mike King was impressed enough with Ilya’s suggested use of (preloading, prefetching, and prerendering directives that Web developers can add to the code for Web pages) to recommend this approach to everyone. Add one line of code to a Web page and you’ll speed up your site, right?

What the use of “pre-[anything]” does is anticipate potential future browser activity and it engages with Websites while users are not looking. To the user the browser experience seems fast, even smart. As a browser user I appreciate the apparent speed up in performance but this is an illusion. It’s a cheap trick and it comes with a cost.

Good stuff!

Search Intent, AMP Errors in Search Console, and Acquisition SEO
Apple Disrupting Search Ads, Knowledge Graph API, Local Pack Filters, and More

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Smash your traffic records with quality SEO.

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What is a dangerous heat index?

National weather service considers it a dangerous number when the index starts to reach 100° F. Heat index of 105° F or more, lasting for two or more days, is considered as dangerous and prompts an "excessive heat warning" from the weather service.

On July 8th 2003 a record heat index was recorded in Saudi Arabia, with a temperature of 178 degrees (81°C).

Note, it's important to remember that heat-index-temperature is not the same as an actual temperate. Refer to "What is heat index" for explanation of how heat index is measured.


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Home » Recent News » Diversity » Innovo Pitch Competition

Innovo Pitch Competition

Charlotte’s entrepreneurial community is welcome to engage with JCSU student entrepreneurs as they compete to win $2500 to develop their business idea the afternoon of March 10th from 2-5pm in the New Science Center Auditorium. From robotics in social enterprise, to mentorship for youth, to a computer app, to a campus-based service, this year’s idea entries represent a range of disciplines. Register here!

Queen City Forward at Semi-Final RoundIf you haven’t visited JCSU’s New Science Center, you’re in for a real treat! The building houses student classrooms, a bioinformatics lab, and other amenities making it the perfect backdrop to supporting innovation.

Megan at CIAA

Much concern has been raised about economic development among minority communities, and your presence and engagement will support college-age students as they develop their pitch their ideas, network, and celebrate the entrepreneurial spirit.

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