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In Memory of Munchkin who crossed the Rainbow Bridge 9-06 at almost 21 years old. Munchkin was our first Virtual Adoptee ("Forever Foster”) and lives on as our poster Lhasa ... If you would like to make a donation for, or sponsor a Virtual Adoptee ("Forever Foster”), please use the buttons below!
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House Training Your Lhasa

Whether a new pup or an older addition to the family, one of the most important aspects of pet ownership is housetraining (notice I use the term house "training" as opposed to house "breaking"). I'll start out with suggestions for a pup which can also be used on an adult Lhasa new to the home. Adopting an older Lhasa (be it 10 months or 5 years) gives you an edge in that it has a larger bladder to start with and has more focus on matters at hand. Lhasa puppies are silly little things ... flitting here, flying there ... peeing before you even know what happened because their legs are so short you didn't even realize they were squatting ...

**For clarification ~ unless specifically noted, "Lhasa" is used when referring to a puppy or an older dog.

» First and foremost, you have a puppy, a baby (an infant, if you will) living with you now. It has a very small bladder and no control over its bladder or bowels. As the pup matures, it will gain more control over these bodily functions. Also, please bear in mind it is not uncommon for an older Lhasa to have some training issues until it learns (1) what is and what isn't appropriate, (2) what the normal household routine is, and (3) where its' place is in the pack order. Until such time, I suggest utilizing the crate/tether/gate method as a training tool for all ages. If your Lhasa isn't in its crate, it is tethered to you by means of a 4-6 foot leash (called "tether training"). If it's not crated or tethered, it is gated (or penned) in a small area with its toys, food and bedding for short supervised periods of time. With Lhasas older than 8 months, I suggest using a crate/tether at all times. By keeping your Lhasa in close proximity, you will learn its "I gotta go potty" body language and can move to get it outside. Lhasas generally will not soil a crate unless: (1) the crate is too large, (2) if they are left for unreasonable periods of time, or (3) have a gastrointestinal "bug."

» Puppies should be taken out every 20-30 minutes to the same area; dogs over a year can go out every 1-2 hours. Pick a cue word or phrase and use it every time, i.e., "Get with it! "Hurry up!" etc., etc. For every appropriate potty behavior, lavish praise and a special treat are in order. You want to make a big production of it so he/she knows you are extremely pleased with its behavior. I suggest a special, irresistible treat reserved just for potty training along a happy, high-pitched voice just oozing praises ... and never mind what the neighbors think. Puppies should also be taken out: (1) first thing out of the crate, (2) right after every meal, (3) in the middle of a long play session, and (4) just before bedtime [in addition to the every 20-30 minutes ... oh yes, puppies are lots of work!!]. As the pup matures, you can extend the time between potty breaks.

» Please bear in mind that when you get your new pup outside, it is going to want to jump, play, explore, run, and mouth everything it can find (an older, new dog will want to sniff and check everything out) ... anything but go potty. In other words, you'll have to spend some time with it for every potty run to begin with. You want to give it plenty of time to go (but don't play with him/her) and then be on hand when it does so you can treat/praise lavishly. If, after a reasonable amount of time, your Lhasa still hasn't gone potty, put him/her in its crate. Wait 10-15 minutes and take outside again. You may have to do this several times before getting the desired results ... elimination outside! I guarantee the minute you decide your Lhasa doesn't have to go and is allowed access to the carpet, it will unload the nanosecond your back is turned or it gets out of your line-of-sight behind the leg of the coffee table.

» If your Lhasa has an accident, do not scold unless you catch it in the act!! Clean up the accident quickly, quietly and out of his/her sight, if at all possible. Lhasas do not take kindly to physical punishment or yelling. A simple "bad boy/girl" in a low voice accompanied by a frown is sufficient ... and only if you catch your Lhasa in the act. Immediately take it outside ... if it manages to eliminate outside ~ even a drop ~ after having an accident inside, you want to praise heartily and treat immediately. A rolled-up newspaper should only be used to hit yourself in the head because you were not watching your Lhasa close enough. Scolding a Lhasa after the fact only teaches it is "bad to go potty" at any time ... then you'll have a Lhasa sneaking off and eliminating somewhere else in the house where you can't see it (another good reason for tethering training). BOTTOM LINE: if your Lhasa is having accidents in the house, it's YOUR fault for not watching him/her close enough and anticipating its elimination needs.

» Buy an enzymatic cleaner and use it correctly. Both canines and felines are drawn back to the same elimination area by smell (and they will return to the same area again and again, if allowed). These cleaners have enzymes in them that "eat" stains and odors. Nature's Miracle and Simple Solution are two of the most popular and can be purchased at Petsmart, Petco, or the local pet supply place. Don't bother with the quart ... the gallon size is much more economical and I guarantee you will be using it. Works on urine, feces, vomit and blood. I'm finding that some folks buy Nature's Miracle (wonderful product) and then use it incorrectly. Once the initial feces/urine is cleaned/wiped up, the cleaner should be used to soak the whole area and then left to dry. No blotting up allowed!! The enzymes can't work if they're being drawn back out of the carpet and pad. When steam cleaning carpets, I use the enzymatic cleaner in a 50/50 mixture in my big Hoover steam cleaner (50% water, 50% enzymatic cleaner). Also works great on ceramic kitchen tile and grout as it penetrates the grout and eliminates stains/odors. For tough or old stains, you may have to apply and let dry several times over several days. Can also be used to muck out crates. Like I said ... buy the gallon size (and if the store is across town, buy 2 gallons!).

» If you're lucky enough to be installing new carpet before a new pet arrives, invest in "PetPad" carpet padding. It is special carpet padding that has a waterproof layer bonded directly to the top of the pad. If there are any accidents or spills, it keeps the liquid from soaking completely through the padding to the sub flooring ... which makes it much easier to clean and remove stains/odors from the carpet. The additional cost is nominal and well worth the investment.

» The most serious training blunders an owner can make are (1) allowing the Lhasa access to other areas of the house before he/she has earned it by displaying appropriate potty habits and (2) by not monitoring his/her every move. Granted, there will be accidents ... doodoo happens. However, if you are watching your Lhasa carefully (tethering), confining it to a specific area (crate/gate), and giving it ample opportunity to eliminate outside accompanied by lavish praise/treats, it will all come together ... but not overnight and it varies with each Lhasa. Some will "get it" at six months ... others won't until they are older and possibly close to being 12 months old. Until they do get it, consistency and communicating to them what is expected are priorities. I find with older Lhasas it generally takes anywhere from 1-4 months after arriving in the home to be deemed totally reliable (some less, some more ... depends on the dog). And remember, each dog is an individual and what works for one, may not work on another. You have to take into consideration the Lhasa, background, temperament, and what other problems need to be dealt with first.

» I use a 60-day "rule of thumb" when house training. Each day that goes by without an accident is counted, i.e., Day 1, Day 2, etc., etc. An accident bumps us back to "Day 1" again. When a Lhasa has gone a full consecutive 60 days with no accidents, I deem it as being "reliable." In the event of a relapse, we revert to the crate/tether/gate method to whatever degree I feel is necessary ... it may be a full tether, or just a baby gate placed across the door to the room that I am in with the Lhasa, or crating when unsupervised ... or all three methods and counting from Day 1 again.

» Finally!!!! ... Your Lhasa has figured out that going potty outdoors has its own rewards and will "Get with it!" on command. How do you go from annoying the neighbors with your incessant chant at all hours to getting your Lhasa to "tell" you it needs to go?? There are two generally-recognized methods you can utilize for this. The first is the "bell" method: Hang a small string of bells (saved from Christmas or purchased at a craft store) by the back door at the Lhasa's level. Each time you take your Lhasa outside, physically take its nose or paw and "ring" the bells (accompanied by praise, of course). One day, your Lhasa will run to the door and ring the bells!! (And you'd better hope you're not at the other end of the house where you can't hear them.) Only problem with bells ... (1) they can't be heard all over the house, (2) if you're visiting other homes, you'll need to bring your bells along, and (3) some Lhasas don't like bells and won't go near them. I prefer teaching them to "speak" on command using treats. Once your Lhasa has mastered "speaking," start cuing it at the door during a normal potty run ... "Frankie, you need to go outside?? What do you say?? Can you speak?" When he/she "speaks," the door is opened and access to the yard is allowed. Same cue to open the door to get back inside. "Telling" you they have to go outside (or want back inside) works anywhere, anytime and is easily transferable to any outside door. Don't be surprised if you find yourself designated "doorperson" for a Lhasa that enjoys the yard. If you know the pooch in question really doesn't have to go, i.e., was just outside and just went potty (which means you are still monitoring his/her toilet habits), you can deny access, should you choose. Many smart little Lhasas will play the "I go outside, I get a cookie/treat" game if allowed ... and then you end up with a smart, fat little Lhasa. As a side note, some Lhasas will refuse to "tell" you they have to go outside. You are expected to read their minds and know that "I'm sitting here staring at the door," means, "I gotta go potty." These are the dogs that I run out of the house every 1-2 hours or so … just in case.

» Having your Lhasa on a set feeding and toileting routine is extremely beneficial when house training. You learn his/her schedule and can anticipate its needs for elimination. With the older Lhasas, I feed once a day in the early evening with several "potty" treats during the day. If a Lhasa has a sensitive tummy and/or is having the dreaded "yellow foamies," I'll split its daily food intake into two meals or supplement the once-a-day meal with small treats throughout the day to keep its tummy from becoming empty. However, should the smaller, more frequent meals or additional treats throughout the day not take care of the "foamy" problem, please have your Lhasa evaluated by a vet!! The "yellow foam" is actually bile being thrown up and can be a sign of a much more serious problem, i.e., an upper GI tract inflammation that can be come very serious … even life threatening … if ignored.

» Learn to use "cues," like a having one outside spot designated as a potty area ... even if it means picking up a poop in the house and carrying it outside to the potty area for that newly-arrived Lhasa. If you have another housetrained dog, enlist its aid to help train your new arrival (once you've determined the two are compatible). Every time the older or established dog goes outside for potty, send the little buddy out too. (On the other hand, if you have a dog that isn't fully housetrained, it will also be teaching its little buddy where to toilet in the house ...).

» Some Lhasas will engage in "coprophagia" … in other words, they eat their own poop. There are many theories why this happens, none of which makes it any more palatable to us humans. If your Lhasa starts this unpleasant snacking activity, you can do the "swoop and scoop," getting it out of their reach as soon as possible. Some owners have good results mixing green beans or pineapple in with their Lhasa's regular food. Others employ commercial products such as "Deter" or "Forbid" which are sprinkled on regular food. Still others swear by Tabasco sauce dashed on the "delicacy." You'll just have to experiment and see what works best for you and your dog. Some Lhasas will also raid the cat's litter box given half a chance … a medical disaster waiting to happen if you use clay-based litter. Keep litter boxes out of reach or inaccessible.

» If you have a Lhasa (or any pet, canine or feline) suddenly "lose" its house training when it has been reliable for a long time, please have it thoroughly evaluated by your vet. It may have an underlying medical condition causing it to lose its training, i.e., bladder/kidney stones, urinary tract infection, diabetes, Cushing's or Addison's disease, cognitive difficulties, epileptic seizures, liver disease or kidney failure. Neutered males or spayed females may also develop incontinence, which can easily be controlled with medication. Any deviation from established habits is good reason for going to the vet … and not just assuming your Lhasa is being "stubborn" or "vengeful" or "getting old."

» Lhasas recovering from bladder or kidney stones have their own set of problems, especially if surgery was involved. Until the bladder/kidney heals, they may have some leakage or little control. Please be patient with your Lhasa and consult with your vet if it doesn't appear to be improving.

» Males & Marking: Some male dogs will engage in "marking" behaviors. By urinating a little on whatever they pass by, they are telling other dogs that "this is mine and I'm willing to defend it." One of the best ways to prevent this is to have your male neutered at an early age (4-6 months old), and the sooner the better. Many early-neutered males never lift their legs and they'll never come up with testicular cancer or one of the other related problems. If you've an older male with marking problems, you can purchase "belly bands" which work well in conjunction with tether training (here's that word again!). A belly band is a strip of cloth that is wrapped around the dog's middle which fastens with Velcro. Inside the belly band is a woman's panty liner. As the dog goes along "marking," the urine is contained within the pad. At the same time, you can issue a correction, i.e., a short, sharp pull on the leash and the command "no mark!" Until such time as the dog learns marking is not acceptable behavior, the furnishings are protected. Obviously, when running the dog outside, the belly band needs to be removed. If you can't find belly bands in your area, you can make your own or go online with one of the search engines and locate an outlet for them (Google.com is the premium search engine with well over 2+ billion websites referenced). Occasionally, females will also engage in this marking of territory. Again, tether training is your best bet to teach her this is unacceptable behavior in a home setting. Early spaying of a female will decrease the likelihood of this behavior, in addition to greatly reducing her risk of getting mammary cancer. And a spayed female will never have an unplanned pregnancy or the often fatal pyrometria (infection of the uterus).

If you've found this article to be helpful, please consider making a donation to Lhasa Apso Rescue (… or, better yet, becoming a volunteer!). Information regarding donations and/or volunteer opportunities may be found at … http://www.LhasaApsoRescue.org … under the "How You Can Help" Donate & Foster link. Congrats on your new Lhasa!!

© Vickie Kuhlmann 2002
ALAC Rescue ~ Colorado

Permission to reproduce and/or circulate this article is granted with the condition that it be disseminated in its entirety and the copyright/credit to Vickie Kuhlmann remains attached.
Authored by © Vickie Kuhlmann 2002


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With These Tips, Healthy Nutrition Doesn't Need To Be Uninteresting

It is not always easy to eat right. In fact, it is much easier to eat badly. The cheapest and easiest foods to make are usually the worst for you. However, if you have the time and the motivation, eating nutritiously should not be much of a challenge. This article will offer some advice to help beat that challenge.

Omega 3 fatty acids should be consumed for a healthy heart. These poly unsaturated fatty acids work to lower the triglycerides and increase HDL, the good cholesterol, in your body. Omega 3 fatty acids can also prevent blood from clotting inside your body. Studies also show that consuming Omega 3 fats can help to lower blood pressure.

Riboflavin is necessary for a healthy diet. It is required by our body to help release energy from protein, carbohydrates and fats in our diet. Riboflavin boosts metabolism and processes iron. Whole grain products and dairy products have a high Riboflavin content.

A great nutrition tip when you are trying to gain muscle is to make sure you're eating enough calories. You need to determine how many calories it requires to maintain your weight and then you must eat a bit more than that, in order to gain muscle.

If you are having trouble about what you should and shouldn't eat, consult with a doctor or friends. Sometimes it can be hectic to eat nutritious when there is so much information out there for you to read. Asking around can help you understand what it is you should be putting into your body to keep it running healthy.

To ensure that one has the best nutrition, careful thought must be given to one's diet. By eating more healthy foods such as fruits, vegetables, and fish, one will have more positive nutrients in their diet. The proper diet is not beyond the reach of anyone if they have put the thought into it.

To improve the function of your liver, include plenty of tryptophan in your diet. Tryptophan is an amino acid that helps your body synthesize various proteins. It is essential to the production of niacin, which boosts liver health. Foods rich in tryptophan include salmon, turkey, and watercress. Tryptophan can also reduce anxiety levels.

Beans are great nutrition source across the board. They offer a high source of protein, low fat content, and little to no sugar. This makes them quite versatile for dieters. There several types of meals you can make with beans in it that can offer a high quality of nutrition.

Putting together a delicious smoothie can be enjoyable and fulfilling. The following tip will help you make an even more nutritious smoothie. Adding extras such as cocoa, which is rich in antioxidants, or flax seed oil, which is jam-packed with Omega-3s, will make it even more nutritious. Adding these two items can make smoothies tastier and give them extra nutrients for better immunity.

Unless you are diabetic, avoid eating two to three hours before you go to bed. Do something to take your mind off food like putting away leftovers, washing the dishes, or cleaning your teeth. Finish your evening with a nice cup of herbal tea. This will help you to relax and get to sleep.

Increase your use of herbs and spices. Part of the reason "eating healthy" seems so unattractive is the perceived blandness of the food. The truth is, fat and salt are natural flavoring agents, so if you remove them you've got to start experimenting with herbs and spices until you've got healthy food that is full of flavor.

Take the time to learn about sugars in your foods. It is important to know the differences in the various sugars you eat consistently. Sugars in fruits are better for you than sugars in sweets, yet can still be detrimental if you eat too much. Learn what is in your food so you can make the right decisions about the levels you take in.

Discover More Here will want to watch out for any foods that are labeled "fat-free" or "zero trans fat." Even though a food claims it is low in fat it could have tons of sugar. You must check the nutritional facts on the back of all packages to check for undesirable ingredients.

It's easy to assume that what you eat is healthy when it actually is not. Bread that is advertised to be seven-grain may not actually contain whole grain at all. Rely on the hard facts on the nutrition label rather than believing a food is healthy just because it says it's fat free.

To improve your health, limit your intake of unnatural foods. Cut back on processed foods and foods fried in oil. When you do consume processed foods choose ones made from whole grains. Whole grains are more nutrient dense than the alternatives and since it takes the body longer to break whole grains down, you stay full longer.

To keep your body feeling good and healthy, be sure to intake a balanced nutritional diet every day. Monitor what you are eating and consider whether you are in balance. A healthy daily diet should consist of fifty to fifty-five percent carbohydrates, fifteen to twenty percent protein and thirty percent fats.

One step to a more nutritious lifestyle is to cut out all refined flour from your diet. collagen stretch marks itch includes changing to whole-wheat pastas and breads. There are many benefits to adding whole-wheat products to your diet. If you're worried about getting used to the different taste, don't. Your taste will quickly change, and you will love it!

If you are going to eat food with high calorie or sugar content, try to eat it early in the day when your metabolic rate is moving at a faster pace. You are more likely to end up with excess calories that get stored as fat if you eat such foods later in the day when your metabolism is slower.

Best Foods To Eat For Hydrating Skin - mindbodygreen

Best Foods To Eat For Hydrating Skin - mindbodygreen The night was bookended with collagen. To start, bone broth was one of the passed apps at the "happy hour" reception. There was http://partstate6ian.tblogz.com/tricks-to-efficient-skin-care-retail-company-promotion-revealed-1428418 , one beef, and one "glow," which was a combination of veggies and chicken all courtesy of Bonafide provisions. To end the evening, almond milk collagen hot chocolate was served with gelatin marshmallows—which are chock-full of collagen.

Isn't creating your own personal nutrition plan helpful? As you have seen in this article, there are a lot of ways this can be done and no two plans or diets will yield the same results. There are also lots of customizable options that can work with your needs and budget.

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Start with the library catalog link at the left. All of our licensed research resources are combined under Universal Search.

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Leslie J. Savage Library: Citations

Basic Information & Rules

Why Cite?

Citing is important for several reasons:

  • To show responsibility in research and scholarship by giving credit to other researchers for their ideas.
  • To illustrate that you have done the proper research to retrieve your information.
  • It helps you to avoid plagiarizing.
  • It helps the reader find the resources.

What is a Citation?

Essentially, it's an address that also serves to give attribution to the party or parties responsible for the work.

Similar to how your friends need the address to your home to find your Super Bowl party, a reader needs an address to find the article you have used in your research. Additionally, citations give the proper credit to those who created the source you used and helps you to avoid plagiarizing another researcher.

Important Information

Since a citation is an address, it needs to have enough information to be unique while giving proper credit.

If you told your friends your house is the blue one on 1st street in Denver - they might have a hard time finding you. There could be hundreds of blue houses on 1st street in a large city. They also need your house number, apartment number, etc.

In the case of citations, you need to make sure you include all the important information:

  • Responsible Parties: authors (individuals or corporate), editors, translators, performers, etc
  • Publication: Name of the publisher, location of the publisher, date of publication
  • Source Information: Title of the work (title of book, journal, magazine, newspaper, etc), title of the article, chapter, essay, etc, volume number, issue number, edition number, page numbers, etc.
  • Retrieval Information: Format (print, electronic, video, audio, interview, etc), where you found it (website, database, in print, etc), date of retrieval

You won't use all of this information in every case, but make sure you check if your source includes any of this information. For example, it might not be immediately apparent that a book is the 3rd edition, but edition is important. If you quote the 3rd edition, but your reader finds the 4th edition, there could be differences between the two sources.

Finding the Information

Finding the necessary information can be tricky, but if you follow a few basic rules, you should eventually get what you need.

  1. If the source is printed, check first few pages of the work. Avoid the outside cover or spine of a work. Those areas are meant to get a person to pick up the item and read it or buy it. It will not include all the information you need. Look at the first few pages, to find the information about the entire work.
    • If you are citing only one essay, article, or chapter from an entire work, you'll also need to grab that information. Usually, information about the author, etc., is that the beginning or end of the article/essay/chapter.
  2. If the source is electronic, for instance an article in a database, you'll need to determine how that database or website provides the information. Usually, in a research database there is a "source" or "publication" section that gives you what you need. Websites can be tricky and you might need to do some hunting.
  3. If the source is something else, such as an online video or a newscast, you'll probably need to look at the credits, about section, or other similar places.

Finding a Citation Example

No one expects you to memorize every citation format. There are plenty of examples out there for you to consider when you need to build a citation.

  • Hacker's "A Pocket Style Manual".
  • The official manual or handbook for the preferred style.
  • Online examples linked on this site (above).

Avoid generators or automatically generated citations. These are tempting, but they are computer generated and are only as good as the information that has been entered into the generator.

Savage Library has the official and most current manuals for the most popular citation styles on "permanent reserve" behind the main desk. Just come and request to use one of them and we will check it out to you for a couple hours. (They may only be used inside the library building). Our permanent reserves include MLA, APA, Chicago, AP, and Turabian. We may have other style manuals housed in our regular collection.

Why are there so many styles?

I know it can be frustrating when you are faced with using a different style for each class or project. There are many styles out there and there are reasons for this. For instance, music researchers tend to use Turabian style because it accommodates the type of information they need to cite, such as musical scores. Also, some styles developed because certain disciplines wanted various pieces of information to be at the front of the citation.

The simplest way to approach citations is to gather the information and then plug it into the appropriate example. Try not to let the different styles slow you down. In the end, they all have the same purpose - give credit and allow someone to find it later.

Information Literacy Librarian

Renée Barney's picture
Renée Barney
Library 210

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